Cities of Crete
Welcome to Crete! Crete Island known for its great history, through mythology and the famous Minoan civilization. An island of unique natural beauty, with its proud peaks, enchanting coastlines and vast olive grov...
Overview
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Description
Welcome to Crete!
Crete Island known for its great history, through mythology and the famous Minoan civilization. An island of unique natural beauty, with its proud peaks, enchanting coastlines and vast olive groves.
An island full of music, literature and traditional folk art. There are on Crete, picturesque harbours, historic cities and welcoming villages, its deep gorges and famous beaches, the palaces, the museums and the artefacts and turn your journey into a unique experience.
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Itinerary
The History of Heraklion City
The largest city in Greece, it ranks fourth in the country, with a population around 250,000. Built on the north coast of the island overlooking the Cretan Sea, it seems to be protected by its old Venetian walls, the most important monument inherited from the Venetian occupation, which underlines the city’s adventurous past.
History connects the place antiquity and Europe. According to Greek mythology, Zeus, the Father of Gods, brought here the beautiful young virgin Europa with whom he had fallen in love. Their romantic union gave birth to a son, Minos, whose name was borrowed by all the subsequent kings of Crete as well as the historic civilization.
During the 19th century A.D. the Arabs occupied Crete and founded at the site of Heraklion a new city called Rabdhal Khandak (Castle of the ditch): the name Handakas is still used by some of the older residents of Heraklion. In the 10th century the Byzantines took control of the island and managed to stay in power until the beginning of the 13th century.
During the 14th century, the Venetians conquered the city. The Venetian period lasted four and a half centuries and it was a period of great progress for the city talking about development in areas such as trade and architecture, literature and art.
Wondering the city of Heraklion
The city walls: Heraklion surrounded by a formidable medieval wall, which was used to protect it from enemies. Owning to this, the city enjoyed the reputation as well-fortified state in the Mediterranean base in. It stood up to a siege from the Turks for 21 years, but was finally scized in 1669 after its betrayed by a Greek-Venetian engineer who informed the invaders of the walls’ weaknesses at east and west bastions. It is possible to walk along the top of these walls and enjoy a view over the city. You may reach the Grave of the Cretan writer Nikos Kazantzakis (1883-1957) where it is written: ‘’I hope for nothing, I fear nothing: I am free”.
- Koules Fortress the Venetian fortress in the entrance of the harbour, the symbol of the city.
- Eleftheriou Venizelou Square (Lion Square) is one of the busiest parts of Heraklion. It is never quiet, unfolding its various aspects 24 hours day, 365 days a year.
- Venetian Loggia the most elegant Venetian monument in Crete.
- The Bembo fountain a wonderful Venetian fountain next to a Turkish monument in Kornarou Square, the square of Erotokritos and Aretousa, the great Cretan poet Vitsentzos Cornaros.
The History of Chania City
The city of Chania is the second largest city of Crete. The once upon a time governing centre of Crete, featuring long times of occupations by Arabs, Venetian and Turks, Chania is a city of rich history and glorious moments since the antiquity. This colorful and evident blend of civilizations, combined with the famous Cretan spirit shapes the city of Chania.
It dates back to the Neolithic Era and used to be one of the main communities of the Minoans, as proven by recent excavations in Kasteli. Chania was mostly known as Kydonia in the past and its story is indispensably associated with conquerors: the Venetians built the Acropolis and their own Cathedral, and fortified Kasteli, although in 1645 the Turks managed to conquer the region, after two month siege. The Turks were expelled in 1898. CRETE was officially united with Greece in 1913 and since then Chania is considered one of the most beautiful and important Greek cities.
Venizelos Graves: On top of the hill of Prophet Elias, at a point with magnificent views of the city of Chania, the Tombs of Venizelos is the burial place of Eleftherios Venizelos and his son Sophocles Venizelos. The place had been indicated by Eleftherios Venizelos himself whose house is very close and today serves as a museum, and beside is the stone statue of Liberty symbolizing the struggles of the Cretans.
- The District of Splantzia: The predominantly Turkish district of Chania which dominates today the Orthodox church of Agios Rokkos, the Turkish underground fountain and the huge plane tree, beneath which dozens of Christians were tortured during the Turkish dominance. Today, Splantzia is one of the most popular neighborhoods of Chania with dozens of stores, restaurants, bars to keep the old streets alive.
- The Egyptian lighthouse is the ornament of the Venetian Harbour and the most photographed monument of the city. Dating since the 16th century, with 21 metres height, its light covers the distance of 7 miles and is considered to be one of the oldest lighthouses in the world. It looks like a minaret in form and in the inner stone staircase, that leads to the balcony with the small glass tower.
- The picturesque streets of the old city & Municipal Market, the huge building is considered to be one of the most important monuments of Chania and was built in 1913. Today it houses a large number of shops that sell to the natives and visitors all the goods of the cretan land, of the traditional kitchen and the traditional arts.
The History of Rethymno City
Rethymno Region as a whole is rich with ancient history, mainly through the Minoan civilization centered at Kydonia east of Rethymno. Rethymno itself began experiencing a period of growth when the Venetian conquerors of the island decided to put an intermediate commercial station between Heraklion and Chania, acquiring its own bishop and nobility in that way. Today’s old town is almost entirely built by the Republic of Venice. It is one of the best-preserved old towns in Crete. The city’s Venetian-era citadel, the Fortezza of Rethymno, is one of the best-preserved castles in Crete. Other monuments include the Neratze mosque (the Municipal Odeon arts centre), the Piazza Rimondi and the Loggia.
The town was captured by the Ottoman Empire in 1646 during the Cretan War (1645-69) and they ruled it for almost three centuries. During the Battle of Crete (20-30 May 1941), the Battle of Rethymno took place between German paratroopers and the Second Australian Imperial Force and Hellenic Army. Although initially unsuccessful, the Germans won the battle after receiving reinforcements from Maleme in the Northwestern part of the island.
- The Historical and Folklore Museum of Rethymno is housed in a 17th century Venetian mansion.
- Fortezza according to one theory, the hill on which the Fortezza is built was once, in a time lost in the mists of history, an island joined to Crete by a narrow strip of land. Over the centuries the channel silted up and the hill became part of the Cretan mainland.
- The current Rimondi Fountain stands on the site of an older fountain believed to have existed since at least 1588.
- Great Door (Porta Guora): It took its name from the rector Jocopo Guora. Today, there is a small market as soon as one walks through the Porta Guora.
- The Lady of the Angels it was built by the Dominican Friars at the end of the Venetian period and dedicated to Mary Magdalene.
Rethymno City walk through the beauty of this promising city to discover on your own its little secret corners. Great Door (Porta Guora) is one of the few surviving remnants of the city fortifications. The walk starts at Agios Frangiskos, the Neratze tzami (Conservatory), the Hostorical and Folklore Museum of Rethymno located at the brand new regional Asia Minor (Mikra Asia) square. From this square we can see the Turkish school with its unique architecture. Then we go through the Venetian Rimondi Fountain or Vryssakia, as the locals call it, where we can stroll in the old city streets to discover the Lady of the Angels and continue until reaching the Fortezza (for coffee). From here we will have the opportunity to see the city and the beach from above.
The History of Agios Nikolaos City
Agios Nikolaos was settled in the late Bronze Age by Dorian occupants of Lato, at a time when the security of the Lato hillfort became a lesser concern and easy access to the harbour at Agios Nikolaos became more important.
The name Agios Nikolaos means Saint Nicholas. Its name lies on the second syllable of the word Nikolaos. Agios Nikolaos or Ayios Nikolaos (alternative romanizations of the Greek) is a common place name in Greece and Cyprus, since Saint Nicholas is the patron saint of sailors in Greece.
Lake Vouliagmeni is the main attraction in Agios Nikolaos and has been associated with many ancient and modern urban myths. The most famous myth says that the lake where the goddess Athena and Artemis Vritomartis took their bath, while another myth, later, says that the lake had no bottom, but it was disproved in 1853, where it was found that the depth is 64 metres. A feature of the lake is the vertical walls, which had led to the theory that was created by volcanic sedimentation, a theory which over the years is losing ground, since today is believed that the lake is the mouth of an underground river. Now the Lake is one of the most popular sights of the city, in a beautiful natural environment where also are many restaurants and cafes.
Near the town there’s an archaeological site of ancient Priniatikos Pyrgos. It appears to have been first settled in the Final Neolithic, circa 3000 BC. Activity on the site continued through out the Minoan Bronze Age and the Classical Greek and Roman periods, spanning a total of up to 4.000 years.
Spinalonga island is a small island off the north of the Elounda Gulf. In Antiquity, its name was Kalydon and was renamed during the Venetian rule, which derives from the “Spina Lunga”, meaning “long thorn”. In 1905 it was used as the Leper Hospital and the lepers of Crete had been taken there. Since 1913, when Crete was united with Greece lepers from around the country and gradually started arriving here, while Spinalonga was marked as the International Leper Hospital of Europe. The most lepers were led to Spinalonga by force, since there would spend the rest of their lives and the label at the entrance that said “incoming to deposit all hope.” During the German Occupation Spinalonga was perhaps the only place in Greece that the foot of the conqueror did not step in. The leper colony closed in 1957, when the last inhabitants were treated. In 2001 the history of Spinalonga island attracted the attention of British author Victoria Hislop, who, shaken, wrote the novel “The Island” which was translated into many languages and became a bestseller. Followed by the transfer to the small screen, which made known the story of Spinalonga across the Panhellenic and it has established itself as a symbol of social exclusion. The access to Spinalonga is by boat from Elounda or Plaka and the visitor can see the Venetian vaulted tanks, the building of the Guard, the gunpowder in the church of Agios Nikolaos and the houses where they had lived sufferers of the Hansen disease.
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Agios Nikolaos - The Pretty Harbour Town
Aghios Nikolaos is one of the most picturesque towns in East Crete, and is the capital of the Lassithi Prefecture. It enjoys a strategic location on the Gulf of Mirabello: in the summer it turns itself into a cosmopolitan tourist resort.
Aghios Nikolaos was built on the site of the harbour town of Lato, an important city-state of yore. An old harbour town, it was known as Lato pros Kamares.
The two shared a floruit in the Archaic and Classical eras, had their own currency and worshipped the Goddess Eileithyia, the patroness of childbirth, Lato pros Kamares hit its peak about 800-700 BC, dominating and controlling the surrounding countryside.
Aghios Nikolaos began to become more touristy in the 1960s – and thus today is one of the most cosmopolitan tourist resorts, attracting thousands of visitors every year.
A feature of ‘Aghios’, as the locals call it, is the Vouliagmeni Lake, where according to old myth Aphrodite and Athena were wont to come and bathe. Beautiful Neo-Classical buildings were put up round and about the small harbour, and also up the steep streets of the town.
The city chiefly subsists on tourism, but despite the boom it has not lost its picturesque quality. Every summer the small harbour and the lake, surrounded with restaurants, cafes and shops – it is a favoured spot for a "volta" (the walk in the evening) for locals and visitors alike.
East of the lake is another favoured spot in Aghios Nikolaos – the beach of Kitroplateia, for a quick ‘dip’ inside the city limits, alongside of which are a good many ouzeries and cafes, with a view of the sea.
As well as all this, Aghios Nikolaos enjoys another advantage: it is built in a strategic position on the Mirabello Gulf: one close enough to the cosmopolitan and up-market resort of Elounda.
It may well be the ideal place from which to explore East Crete.
Heraklion - The Gateway of Crete
Heraklion is the largest city of Crete and the island’s capital. Its history properly begins in post-Minoan times. Today it is a modern, lively town and an important economic centre. It preserves traces of its long history, and the conquerors who passed through.
This, the biggest city on Crete and its capital, has a history running back for thousands of years, and still retains the old (but post-Minoan) name of Heraklion – albeit with others for some long spells.
Today Heraklion is a large modern city, cosmopolitan and busy the year round; an important economic centre with a rich cultural life.
As in any big city, and in addition to the museums, attractions and other tourist draws, it is worth your while to enter into Heraklion’s rhythms of being: to saunter along the pedestrian streets of its historic centre, to lose yourself in the alleyways of the Old Town, to take your ease in the coffee bars and raki-joints that area part of Herakliot culture.
In recent years, many streets around the centre have become pedestrianized and so link the major monuments of the city.
One can go about more readily, free from the rush of traffic. With the development of the modern beach front, Heraklion once again begins to turn its face to the sea.
The coast road, running west from Nea Halicarnassus in the east, passes through the Venetian harbour on to the PanCretan stadium: it has some bicycle lanes, and also on it major monuments recently restored (such as the church of Peter and Paul). It thus offers many chances for a pleasant stroll on foot or a bike-ride.
Moreover, in the summer, it is worth attending the numerous cultural events held in the moat of the Venetian walls (the out-door theatres of Nikos Kazantzakis, and of Manolis Hatzidakis), or put on in the recently renovated gates and galleries of the fortification walls that have been converted into exhibition spaces.
Natural disasters, the bombings of WW II, regrettable choices of the local authorities of the past (and not so distant past!), as well as the rapid development of the next decades – all have been responsible for the loss of many of the city’s monuments and to a great degree the fabric of the Old Town.
Yet, even so, the visitor will have much to see, especially in the historical centre. The old co-exists with the new: the basic structure of the historical heart has remained unchanged for centuries.
Making a start at the Lion Square, where the Morosini Fountain stands in splendour, the visitor may wander around what was the heart of the Venetian administrative area. A few yards off is the Basilica of Aghios Marcos, dedicated to the patron saint of Venice.
Next, on to the Loggia,one of the most splendid Venetian edifices on the island, where met the Club of the Venetian nobles; and then down the road (25th August Street) with its imposing Neo-Classical buildings and the Square of Aghios Titos with the church of the same name – an unusual ecclesiastical structure (Byzantine basilica, converted to Catholic church, and then mosque.
Rebuilt as mosque, and now an Orthodox church again). At the bottom of the street we reach the Venetian harbour, over which the Koule has stood watch down the centuries. Here too are located the shipsheds, the Venetian arsenals.
The splendours do not end there! The Venetian walls the largest defensive works in the Eastern Mediterranean, cry out for exploration. Indeed several of the gates, galleries and ramparts receive visitors on a considerable scale and host cultural exhibitions, especially in the summer months.
Naturally one must not miss out on the city’s museums, which are counted amongst the most worthwhile in the country. The Archaeological Museum in Heraklion (by Freedom Square) holds all the Minoan treasures from the Palaces and other revered Minoan sites that have been excavated.
Amongst them, you will see the frescoes from the Palace of Knossos, the famous earring with the two bees on a comb or flower-head from Malia, the Festos Disc, the stone vase in the shape of a bull’s head and so on .. and on.
The Historical Museum (down by and west of the Venetian harbour) houses objects that chronicle the age-long history of the island as well as the personal belongings of Nikos Kazantzakis and two famous paintings by El Greco.
Another important museum of the city is that of Natural History (a little to the west of the Historical Museum): it is located in a historic industrial building on the seafront promenade. It covers the rich fauna and floral of Crete and of the Mediterranean generally: there are several interactive exhibits, a room in which to experience earthquakes, and a large and effective section for children.
A little outside the city are two other major attractions. The Palace of Knossos is one of the most popular archaeological sites in Greece (after the Acropolis in Athens):
it gives a unique chance to appreciate the Minoan way of life. Again, and further off to the east at Gouves, is to be found the Cretaquarium, where one can see close-up sea creatures and plants – including rare species, such as the loggerhead turtles (Karetta karetta).
Rethymno - The Town of Learning
The third largest city on Crete, built on the site of the older Rithymna, it still retains today the character of its Renaissance appearance: it is a major attraction to visitors from all over the world.
The earliest evidence of habitation here comes from the late Minoan period (1550-1250 BC). It is much later on, though, that the city of Rithymna reaches its peak – namely in the 4th-3rd centuries BC.
With the exception of the Roman period, the city thereafter is in decline, making no mark on history. For the time of the First Byzantine era and the Arab rule, historical information is scanty indeed.
Rethymnon is, without exaggeration, one of the most attractive towns in Greece, with its particular ‘colour’, its wealth of history and architecture – preserving one of the best surviving Venetian cities.
In the Old Town Renaissance architectural elements of the Venetian era co-exist with Ottoman structures: the rich history of the city is in step with the development of modern tourism. In the summer, Rethymnon has visitors from all over the world, who base themselves here for the exploration of the Prefecture and indeed the whole island, whilst in the winter the students of the local University bring a buzz to the place.
Rethymnon maintains its long cultural tradition with events such as the Renaissance Festival that occurs every summer, bringing to life again that section of the city built then.
Further the Rethymnon Carnival, an institution now a century old, has witnessed a great development in recent years: it is famous throughout the country – and is a major draw to visitors every spring.
The main attractions of Rethymnon are concentrated in the Old Town, which is worth exploring without any preconceived route, but by just walking along the narrow alleys and so discovering picturesque spots, architectural treasures, old mansions and other signs of those conquerors who have passed through here.
Setting out from the Megali Porta (Porta Guora),(the Main Gate or Porta Guora), one of the few remaining remnants of the city’s fortifications, our tour starts at Aghios Frangiscos, the Neratze Mosque (Conservatory) and the Historical and Folklore Museum which are all to be found in the neighbourhood of the newly-created Asia Minor Square (Plateia Mikrasiaton). From this square we can see the Turkish School with its distinctive architectural style.
Next we pass the Venetian Rimondi Fountain (or the Taps, as the locals call it!), from where we can wander through the narrow lanes of the Old Town to discover the church ‘Our lady of the Angels’ before going on to the Fortezza. From here we have the opportunity to look down upon the town and its beach front.
Descending then to the Venetian harbour, we return to the shopping street (Arkadi) with its impressive Loggia, and other restored structures of really exceptional beauty, such as the Kara Mousa Pasha Mosque.
The perfect conclusion to a walk in Rethymnon has to be nothing other than the sea-front promenade with its myriad cafes and bustling restaurants with a view of the sea and sandy shore.
Chania - The Jewel in the Crown
Chania, or ‘Venice in the East’, is the second biggest city in Crete, built on the site of old Kydonia. The distinctive colour of the old town with all that it has inherited from earlier manifestations, the iconic Venetian harbour and the unique architecture have together established Chania as one of the most popular tourist destinations on the island.
Chania is built on the site of Kydonia, an ancient city that according to legend was founded in prehistoric times by Kydones, a son of Hermes or Apollo. Homer described the town as ‘important’ in Crete.
Chania has managed to keep its historic appearance and its authentic ‘colour’ in balance with the strong growth of the recent years. It is one of the most beautiful cities in Greece – rightly named ‘Venice in the East’, keeping alive the imprint of the various cultures that have passed through down the centuries.
In recent decades, Chania has emerged as one of the fastest growing tourist centres on Crete. Especially during the summer the Venetian harbour and the narrow lanes of the Old Town are swamped by visitors from all round the globe.
At the same time, cultural activities reach a peak with the hosting of sundry festivals and events in the renovated historical buildings, such as the impressive Moro shipyards.
But it remains a living city beyond the limits of the tourist season. The numerous student population and the active local groups continue the long intellectual and spiritual heritage of Chania to this very day.
A walk here would certainly pass through the historical quarters of the Old Town, which are made up of individual residential areas, each with its own particular character and architecture.
On the way we will see details and structures representative of the Venetian, Ottoman and local building styles, Neo-Classical houses, churches, squares and so on.
Starting at the west end of the Venetian harbour, we can admire the view from the Firka fort, and then discover the stone-paved streets of the leading Christian families at Topana – with their unusual and multicultural forms.
Next we pass through the lovely Jewish quarter and arrive at Venizelos Square – the meeting point of the Chaniots and with its historical resonance as it was here that Venizelos made his speeches.
We continue down Halidon Street – past the Archaeological Museum , and the church of Aghios Francesco, and stop to pay our respects at the Panagia Trimartyri – the main church of Chania.
Now we turn east into Splantzia, a predominately Turkish neighbourhood, taking Srydlof Street behind the Trimartyri church, where are the famous Bootmakers shops.
Keeping on towards Splantzia, we pass behind the impressive cruciform structure of the Municipal Market, one of the busiest spots in the town with its colours and smells.
Arriving at Splantzia, one can still see today the plane tree where Christians were hung by the Turks, and the Venetian church of Aghios Rocco. Then we proceed towards the sea, to visit the dockyards and Grand Arsenal
A little further on we will encounter one of the most iconic structures in Chania – the Giali Tzami – or mosque: the first to be built in Crete, its name means the Mosque on the Strand.
Today it hosts various exhibitions.
Opposite us looms the lighthouse – the most photographed object in Chania, as we continue our stroll along the colourful Venetian harbour always teeming with life.
Once more we hit the paved lanes – in search of ‘new’ corners with their unusual mixes of architecture – a sure sign of the long history the city has seen.
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